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Ponte Vecchio from above (ph. Nicola Neri)

text Martina Olivieri

December 19, 2024

What to do at Christmas in Florence

From the Ferris wheel to decorated downtown streets: here's everything you can do during the holidays in the city

In December, Florence is dressed in lights and colors, transforming streets and squares into dreamlike settings where every corner tells of the unique atmosphere of Christmas. Between the magic of the decorations and the smell of mulled wine, it is impossible not to be won over by this spectacle that combines tradition and modernity. At the center of it all is Piazza del Duomo, which is transformed into a glittering stage. The Christmas tree, tall and majestic, dominates the scene, while the Nativity scene on the parvis of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore enchants with its terracotta figures, handcrafted by skilled artisans. (Here all the nativity scenes to see in Tuscany).

Natale 2022 ©Nicola Neri

A small universe of details that captures the most authentic spirit of the holidays. But Christmas in Florence is not limited to traditions. The Florence Lights Up festival, with its extraordinary light installations, illuminates Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Vecchio and the city's neighborhoods until January 7, bringing a modern and scenic touch to winter evenings.

At Palazzo Vecchio on Saturdays, Dec. 28 and Jan. 4 from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. in the courtyard resounds the magic of Armonie di Natale, piano concerts (free without reservation), while in the other museums there are evocative musical performances on Sunday afternoons at 3 p.m. (Museo Bardini, Museo Novecento, Santa Maria Novella, Murate Art District), thanks to the collaboration with the Cherubini Conservatory, the Florentine Chamber Orchestra and the Fiesole School of Music.

Until Dec. 24, also at Palazzo Vecchio, in the Teatrino del Cortile della Dogana, Santa's Little House is set up, where children can write and mail their wish letters in a special mailbox. Letters will be sent directly to Santa's headquarters in Rovaniemi, Finland.

Also on the program are Torchlight Routes: for young and old alike, it is possible to explore the city's museums in a special atmosphere and learn about their wonders thanks to the light, which will give the sight of masterpieces at Santa Maria Novella (Dec. 27 h17.30 for families with children 8-12 years old and h19 for youth and adults) and at Palazzo Medici Riccardi (Jan. 3 h19 for families with children 8-12 years old and at 9 p.m. for youth and adults).

Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Cappella dei Magi ©Nicola Neri

Walking through the historic center is a sensory experience: the shop windows of Via de' Tornabuoni light up with glittering decorations, turning a stroll into a hunt for the perfect gift. And for a gourmet break, nothing beats a hot chocolate or hot tea in the city's most beautiful lounges (click here, to discover the most beautiful).

Piazza della Repubblica

If, on the other hand, the cold weather sets in, the city offers exceptional cultural refuges. At Palazzo Strozzi is the Helen Frankenthaler exhibition, the largest retrospective ever organized in Italy dedicated to one of the 20th century's most revolutionary artists, while at Palazzo Vecchio we find Michelangelo and Power. More than fifty works: sculptures, paintings, drawings, autograph letters and plaster casts chosen to illustrate Michelangelo's relationship with power. Florence in December is an interweaving of tradition and modernity, where every street, square or monument tells a different story.

At the Cascine, the Ferris wheel and skating rink returns again this year to enjoy the view from above. The merry-go-round operates daily with hours 10-24 until March 31, 2025. Until Jan. 19, next to the wheel, there is also the main ice skating rink, 1,400 square meters on which to whiz on skates, open daily from 10 a.m. to midnight. From Dec. 8 to Jan. 15, markets arrive and there will be no shortage of Santa Claus in his little house where children can mail their letters.

The view from the Ferris wheel (ph. Dario Garofalo)

Finally, on Monday, Jan. 6, all children aged 6 to 10 are invited to take part in an artistic activity centered precisely on Epiphany and the feast of the Magi in the Renaissance age, in which members of the Medici family were protagonists (at h10 and h11.30).

An invitation to experience the holidays with wonder in the eyes and warmth in the heart. A month that is not just a passage on the calendar, but a real experience that blends the real with the magical, turning every moment into an unforgettable memory.

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