Rocco De Santis of Santa Elisabetta in Florence
Inside the Hotel Brunelleschi, 7 lucky tables can experience a gourmet dream: let's discover it together with the Chef
Rocco De Santis, a versatile chef from Salerno born in 1979, has had a diverse and extensive career. He landed at the Hotel Brunelleschi in Florence in 2017, following numerous experiences scattered around the world.
In his dishes, you can find Mediterranean inspirations he experimented with during his long and recurring collaborations with Gennaro Esposito. He gained precision in French culinary techniques, especially during his time in Vonnas working with Georges Blanc. His expertise in working with meat and, in particular, game, was deepened during his stint at the Domaine de Châteauvieux, a 2-Michelin-star restaurant in Switzerland. Each experience led him to engage with different cuisines and philosophies, helping him create elaborate and creative dishes, but most importantly, authentic ones.
Chef Rocco De Santis himself shared his story and that of his dishes with us during a morning encounter in October at the Tower Bar of the Hotel Brunelleschi.
Where was your passion for cooking born?
It was born almost as a game. Ever since I was a child, in my home in Penta di Fisciano, a small town in the province of Salerno, everyone would gather in the kitchen to prepare lunches and dinners together. The passion for this world, also fueled by some food-loving friends, led me to enroll in a culinary school, and from there, it was a series of experiences and encounters that brought me to where I am today.
What were the experiences that impacted you the most?
Without a doubt, my time with Gennaro Esposito at Torre del Saracino was a significant turning point. It was there that I began to understand that there was a whole different way of cooking and approaching food. From there, I realized that I wanted to aim for places that would allow me to grow. I worked at the Hotel Eden in Rome, where I first experienced high-end hotel restaurant dining. Then, I went to France to work with Georges Blanc, which was a life-changing experience. It was a kitchen and organization that perfectly matched my maniacal idea of order and cleanliness in every way. I went to Switzerland to the Domaine de Châteauvieux, a 2-Michelin-star restaurant, where I learned to work with meat, especially game, as well as stocks and sauces. After accumulating a wealth of experiences abroad, I returned to Italy as a Junior Souschef at the Byblos Art Hotel in Verona, which was a highly educational experience. From there, I had many more experiences until I arrived at the Santa Elisabetta in February 2017.
Your first experience as an Executive Chef?
The Vistamare restaurant at the Hotel Fogliano in Latina, where I earned my first Michelin star.
How did you come to Santa Elisabetta?
In February 2017, I received a call from the Hotel Brunelleschi, which was also managing the Principe di Piemonte at that time. The facility already had all the features to do great work; it only lacked a team, a group of people who could give a strong push to the culinary side, and so it happened! It was a beautiful challenge. The 2 Michelin stars are already a significant commitment. We work well for both lunch and dinner, with 7 reserved tables and a consistently long waiting list. But we don't stop there; this is just the first milestone!
The first dish as a chef that convinced you and brought satisfaction?
The red mullet in saffron bread crust. I created it when I was a section chef under Gennaro Esposito, and I'm very fond of it. I still have it on the menu. It's a filleted red mullet, reconstructed and enclosed in saffron bread. It's a dish inspired by Campanian cuisine, but we've added a Livornese-style sauce. There are also sentimental reasons tied to this dish: when I closed the restaurant and brought it home, my daughter used to eat it with her hands as if it were a snack; she called it "fish sandwich" because it looks a bit like a sandwich.
The Tuscan dish that immediately captivated you?
As soon as I arrived, I always ate Lampredotto, both for lunch and dinner. Initially, I even encapsulated the scents of Lampredotto in a ravioli; it was a fun creation that was highly appreciated by the customers.
How important is seasonality for you? A dish to try this autumn?
We always strive to follow seasonality, out of respect for our customers, but also because we aim for a certain variety of ingredients. The first menu change often occurs between the summer and winter seasons. Right now, we have incorporated truffles, mushrooms, the first cabbages, some turnip greens, pumpkin, and we have started to feature game more prominently, with the addition of duck, deer, and soon we will also include quail.
Do you rely on trusted suppliers?
I have an important supply chain, with trusted suppliers for each category of products. During specific times of the year, I seek out good fish in San Vincenzo, in others I request pink shrimp from Versilia, and in yet others, I source rock mullet in Livorno. The same applies to meat. This is crucial because it makes our work easier. I always use seasonal products and have frequent discussions with my suppliers. This way, I can manage everything with them and order what I will need well in advance.
A dessert that your daughter likes?
My daughter adores tiramisu; on my day off, we have a snack together and always try it in different places. It's a beloved dessert, and we also have it on the menu at Santa Elisabetta. Here, we have a top player in the pastry department, our pastry chef, Francesco De Padova. Working with him is very stimulating. He has a scientific knowledge of the subject matter, from savory to sweet, which surprises and intrigues me every time.
A place in Florence where you seek refuge?
During the summer, I like to head towards Piazzale Michelangelo and the Basilica of San Miniato a Monte. I also enjoy spending time at rooftop bars and restaurants that are a bit higher up.
Your favorite restaurants?
In the city, there are many places I love and have become a bit like home: I Maledetti Toscani for a lampredotto sandwich or focaccia; Melaleuca for a good avocado toast. For a good pizza, Giotto is undoubtedly a great choice. If you want to try typical Tuscan cuisine, Trattoria Sostanza and Trattoria Coco Lezzone are fantastic. Trattoria dell’Oste is perfect for a great Florentine steak.
The most Campanian dish currently on your menu?
Among the first courses, we have "Bottoni," which is pasta with a creamy provolone filling, reminiscent of the Caprese ravioli, served with Swiss chard in a cuttlefish stew with garlic and chili. When creating a dish, I always try to blend the flavors of my home with all the aromas I've encountered during my experiences around the world, which have influenced me.