Paolo Lavezzini, the star of the Four Seasons Firenze

Our interview with the chef of Il Palagio

Two years have passed since Chef Paolo Lavezzini, Emilian by origin but Tuscan by adoption, stepped through the doors of the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze to become Executive Chef of Il Palagio, 1 Michelin star. Two important years of great growth, in which he has made himself known and loved by Florentines and travellers alike. We met him at the Atrium Bar of the famous hotel to tell us what these first years in the city have been like...

After two years in Florence, what are your impressions?
I am starting to get to know it, to understand how it works, to experience it more, from every point of view. Slowly I am starting to get to know the hotel's regular customers, to get out of the kitchen, which is still my comfort zone. Florence is a wonderful city, I feel very comfortable here, I couldn't have been welcomed in a better way.

And how did it go with the team?
We are very close, I've been lucky even if a bit of luck has to be sought. We do everything here, from breakfast to gourmet cuisine, from room service to events, we have six sous-chefs but I always try to be present and review everything. It's tiring, it's not always easy but I'm happy, I didn't expect to start off with such a bang.

Are you more in the room now than when you arrived?
I try! I'm slowly improving, I've never had anyone teach me how to be in the lounge. Especially at brunch I have no way of 'escaping', once a gentleman called me in, I was very hesitant to go out, in the end he asked me why I hadn't prepared the cabbage risotto of the previous time. There and then I didn't know what to say and smiled embarrassedly. That's what brunch is, moments of lightness, fun, funny things like that always happen.

How many types of menu do you have?
We have no less than eight types of menu, ranging from the one at Il Palagio to the one at Atrium, from the room service menu to the wellness menu created in collaboration with nutritionist Lucia Bacciottini. The amount of work is always different, depending on the day and the season, you always have to understand what your priorities are, even though they are all important.

The dishes on the menu you are most fond of?
Without a doubt, the Risotto with lightly smoked butter and seasonal cabbage and the Grilled lobster glazed with hazelnuts, fish and shellfish emulsion, apple and raspberry. Also not to be missed are the Fusilloni with egg white, red mullet, grapefruit and Giaveri Osietra caviar. In addition to the à la carte menu, you can choose our 8-course Gherardesca menu and the 5-course L'incontro menu, which wind their way from the vegetable garden to the sea and then back to the countryside and onto your plate. A true journey of flavours.

Who are your suppliers and how do you choose them?
The most important part for me is ethics. Sustainability is very important, but if there is someone who has good ethics, who respects the various processes, it is worth holding on to. One of them is Polleria Bacci at the Central Market, which is always happy to collaborate with us. Giovanni di Santarpia has introduced me to some amazing suppliers. For meat we have Saccardi who has always helped us with his excellent meats, Salumificio Gerini for cold cuts and the most sought-after types of meat.

What's new for the Openday on Sunday 17 December?
Last year the theme was to bring haute cuisine within everyone's reach, this year the idea is to pay homage to typical Florentine cuisine, with restaurateurs from the most famous trattorias. There will be Paolo Gori of Trattoria Da Burde, but also Leonardo of Fratelli Briganti, the Antico Ristoro di Cambi, Buca Lapi, Buca Mario, and many other friends who have chosen to come and help us out despite the fact that it is Sunday and the Sunday before Christmas.

And finally, what's new for the holidays?
We continue with the traditional panettone because last year it went down very well, but we thought we would repropose it but with unexpected packaging. The Christmas menu tastes very much like family, the New Year's Eve gala and the New Year's Day brunch are not to be missed. It's going to be a really good party!