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txt Marta Innocenti Ciulli

October 1, 2019

JW Anderson. A material man

“I want my work to survive me,” J.W. Anderson on his Florence show

30 years old, but he looks younger. An untamed blond lock over his polite features. Born in Northern Ireland, he quickly moved to London to study and graduate from the London College of Fashion in 2005. While he was studying he worked as a visual merchandiser for Prada, under the guidance and watchful gaze of Manuela Pavesi, Miuccia’s right-hand woman, an outstanding stylist, photographer and unparalleled personality in the fashion world. A gritty determination accomplished the rest.
In 2008, he launched his own brand, J.W. Anderson, presenting it to the press with a capsule collection during London Fashion Week.
The collection was so well received that in 2010 he completed his look with accessories and jewelry, and embarked on his first women’s collection.
In 2013, the LVMH Gruppo bought into the brand with a share, consolidating its reputation as a latest-generation brand on the rise. Soon afterwards Anderson was appointed creative director of Loewe, the Spanish luxury brand, part of LVMH.
A prestigious line up of awards achieved lead to the double acclaim in 2015 at the British Fashion Awards as Menswear Designer of the Year and Womenswear Designer of the Year.
Eclectic, innovative, in love with a style that blends past and present, male and female, Anderson perceives ‘the season’ of fashion with the same male/female language and focuses on the look of his collections as opposed to the gender.
Drapery for women’s clothing with a ultra-feminine finish, ostrich feathers refine slightly more ample skirts, asymmetric closure systems for coats play a dominant role.
There’s an enchanting blouse that clings to the bust and waist with endless sleeves, which is gentle in volume, with a Madame Grès structure, while also being improbably avant-garde. New proportions, new plays on length, baggy for him, heavy shirts with unsuspecting old inserts, nostalgic crochet: we’re happy to see this artist at work here in Florence to present his men’s collection.
How would you define your brand?
There’s always this idea of a shared wardrobe and pushing the envelope. The brand is simply continuing to evolve with me.
What led to your passion for fashion?
I started to work for Prada, under the direction of Manuela Pavesi, which is where I started to become obsessed by fashion.
Which man or woman do you think about when you’re designing?
Every season is the same, but also a different person, like all of us.
Creativity and the highest manufacturing quality. So young and so determined.
You can’t compromise on these two factors if you want to stand out.
How do you relate to this social-dominated world?
It’s part of my generation and I like the fact social media has democratized fashion.
What do you think after product sales immediately after the runway?
It’s a service offered to clients but which also makes us reflect on our past.
How do you view fashion tomorrow?
It’ll be quicker.
What is luxury today?
Luxury is an old word. We have to express luxury differently because we live in a culture of “likes”. For me, JW Anderson is a cultural shaker.
How do you feel before a runway?
Excited
Who and what makes you feel good?
The things I do every day are comforting to me.
The most important thing for your business?
Being flexible.
The event that changed your life?
Meeting Manuela Pavesi.
Your daily internet diet?
BBC and Instagram. 

30 years old, but he looks younger. An untamed blond lock over his polite features. Born in Northern Ireland, he quickly moved to London to study and graduate from the London College of Fashion in 2005. While he was studying he worked as a visual merchandiser for Prada, under the guidance and watchful gaze of Manuela Pavesi, Miuccia’s right-hand woman, an outstanding stylist, photographer and unparalleled personality in the fashion world. A gritty determination accomplished the rest.
In 2008, he launched his own brand, J.W. Anderson, presenting it to the press with a capsule collection during London Fashion Week.
The collection was so well received that in 2010 he completed his look with accessories and jewelry, and embarked on his first women’s collection.
In 2013, the LVMH Gruppo bought into the brand with a share, consolidating its reputation as a latest-generation brand on the rise. Soon afterwards Anderson was appointed creative director of Loewe, the Spanish luxury brand, part of LVMH.
A prestigious line up of awards achieved lead to the double acclaim in 2015 at the British Fashion Awards as Menswear Designer of the Year and Womenswear Designer of the Year.
Eclectic, innovative, in love with a style that blends past and present, male and female, Anderson perceives ‘the season’ of fashion with the same male/female language and focuses on the look of his collections as opposed to the gender.
Drapery for women’s clothing with a ultra-feminine finish, ostrich feathers refine slightly more ample skirts, asymmetric closure systems for coats play a dominant role.
There’s an enchanting blouse that clings to the bust and waist with endless sleeves, which is gentle in volume, with a Madame Grès structure, while also being improbably avant-garde. New proportions, new plays on length, baggy for him, heavy shirts with unsuspecting old inserts, nostalgic crochet: we’re happy to see this artist at work here in Florence to present his men’s collection.
How would you define your brand?
There’s always this idea of a shared wardrobe and pushing the envelope. The brand is simply continuing to evolve with me.
What led to your passion for fashion?
I started to work for Prada, under the direction of Manuela Pavesi, which is where I started to become obsessed by fashion.
Which man or woman do you think about when you’re designing?
Every season is the same, but also a different person, like all of us.
Creativity and the highest manufacturing quality. So young and so determined.
You can’t compromise on these two factors if you want to stand out.
How do you relate to this social-dominated world?
It’s part of my generation and I like the fact social media has democratized fashion.
What do you think after product sales immediately after the runway?
It’s a service offered to clients but which also makes us reflect on our past.
How do you view fashion tomorrow?
It’ll be quicker.
What is luxury today?
Luxury is an old word. We have to express luxury differently because we live in a culture of “likes”. For me, JW Anderson is a cultural shaker.
How do you feel before a runway?
Excited
Who and what makes you feel good?
The things I do every day are comforting to me.
The most important thing for your business?
Being flexible.
The event that changed your life?
Meeting Manuela Pavesi.
Your daily internet diet?
BBC and Instagram. 

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