text Patrizia Tyfaniuk
Capalbio: what to see, what to do and where to eat in Maremma's little Athens
Nature, art, history, restaurants, and hotels... everything to discover in the 'spartan-chic' paradise between Tuscany and Lazio
Located south of Tuscany, about 40 minutes from Grosseto, Capalbio is immersed in one of the most beautiful coastal areas of the region. Long and deserted beaches, crystal-clear sea, and lush flora are just some of the wonders that characterize this area. An enchanting medieval village, wineries where you can taste local wines and products, and charming parks like the Tarot Garden, inspired by Gaudí's Park Güell, are unmissable attractions for those who want to explore the secrets of Maremma.
The strategic location of Capalbio allows to easily visit the galssy coasts of Monte Argentario, a peninsula immersed in greenery that can be reached in a few kilometers through "La Giannella", a strip of land bordered to the northwest by the Tyrrhenian Sea and to the southeast by the Orbetello Lagoon, a seasonal home to pink flamingos and other rare species. The historic village stands on a small hill at 217 meters above sea level and 6 km from the sea, already visible from the road leading to Capalbio. Time seems to have stopped here to preserve its original beauty, yet during the summer months, a youthful and lively atmosphere can be felt along the beaches and streets of the town.
If you want to discover all the most beautiful beaches in and around Capalbio here you can find our dedicated article. Instead, by clicking here you can find the villages not to be missed while exploring Maremma.
THE VILLAGE
Crossing the walls erected by the Aldobrandeschi, a powerful family from the 15th century, and passing through the double arch of Porta Senese, you immerse yourself in the enchanting atmosphere of the ancient medieval village. Visitors are welcomed by the Medici emblem with an inscription dating back to the 17th century. It is said that the narrow streets of the village were so intricate that even the locals often got lost. After taking a few wrong turns, you ascend to Piazza Carlo Giordano, where you can breathe a pleasant harmony between nature, history, and contemporaneity, catching a glimpse of the artwork "Nana Fontaine" by French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, depicting a colorful and joyful female figure, a symbol of freedom and femininity. In just a few minutes, you can reach Palazzo Calacchioni and the Aldobrandeschi Fortress, characterized by its majestic tower built with an ancient Roman technique called "opus incertum," using small irregularly arranged stone blocks, creating a unique intertwining effect. Inside the fortress, the renowned composer Puccini performed on the piano, leaving a musical imprint in the history of the village. The main square houses the Church of S. Nicola, with its sumptuous ceilings decorated with Renaissance frescoes and its bell tower built using stones from ancient Roman ruins.
CapalbioBURANO LAKE RESERVE AND SPAZIO AMATO Via delle Mimose, Ansedonia
An enchanting natural refuge nestled in lush vegetation, Lake Burano is a true natural paradise within a protected area of the WWF. Here, pristine nature reigns supreme, offering a sanctuary to a wide variety of flora and fauna. Inside the Terre di Sacra reserve, you can admire the neon installation called "Spazio Amato", created by artist Massimo Uberti as a tribute to the territory during the twentieth edition of the Hypermaremma festival. This installation represents a unique work of art that blends with the surrounding landscape, inviting spectators to create a deep connection with the environment and preserve its authenticity and prosperity. The Hypermaremma festival, through the collaboration of artists from different disciplines and the use of multiple forms of expression, offers an engaging experience that celebrates the beauty of the unspoiled landscape. It is an invitation to connect with nature and support its conservation for future generations.
RISERVA DEL LAGO DI BURANO E SPAZIO AMATO IL GIARDINO DEI TAROCCHI Loc. Garavicchio
ph. +39 0564 895122
A mystical place where the line between dream and reality dissolves, conceived and created starting from 1979. This masterpiece, created by Niki de Saint Phalle, with the collaboration from sculptor Jean Tinguely, harmoniously merges with nature and unfolds as a path among the 22 figures of the esoteric Tarot game, depicted according to the artist's dreamlike and imaginative vision. The entrance pavilion to the garden is a design by archistar Mario Botta, a single circle in the wall that perfectly conveys the feeling of crossing the border into another dimension.
tarot gardenCULTURAL EVENTS
CAPALBIO FILM FESTIVAL
An annual event held in June, the Capalbio Film Festival is an exciting celebration dedicated to cinema and cinematic writing. Organized by the Capalbio Foundation in collaboration with Comune di Capalbio, the festival aims to give voice to professional writers, screenwriters, and emerging talents who contribute with their pen to enrich our cultural heritage. The program of the festival includes premieres, screenings, and encounters with artists and enthusiasts, offering an immersive experience in the world of cinema. It is a festival where the art of cinema and writing come together in an event that celebrates creativity and inspiration.
CAPALBIO LIBRI
Since 2007, every year during the first week of August, the Amphitheater of Leccio becomes the stage for a very special project: the promotion of books and reading organized by the association "Il Piacere di Leggere" (The Pleasure of Reading). Here, the constant commitment of the association is to discover new techniques and tools to increase the number of readers in Italy. In this event, there is the opportunity to meet and interact with great personalities from the literary world, immersed in the charm of the surrounding territory.
WINERIES
The lands of Capalbio safeguard a wine sector steeped in history and tradition. A fertile and lush land that, from generation to generation, continues to produce excellent wines recognized as DOC products. The hills and the proximity to the sea give the vines an exceptional vocation for the cultivation of Sangiovese, Trebbiano toscano, Vermentino, and the noble Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines of this land harmoniously blend with the local gastronomic delicacies to be tasted in wineries and traditional restaurants.
MONTEVERRO Strada Aurelia Capalbio, 11
ph. +39 0564 890721
A magical place immersed in the countryside, at the foot of the ancient village, which proves to be the ideal location to enjoy local wines and products after a morning of exploration. Monteverro is the result of a project led with passion and ambition by Julia and Georg Weber, a couple who brought their love from Munich to Capalbio, making Monteverro one of the most prestigious and successful realities in the area. Their passion for wine is what has driven them to never compromise on quality, working every day to bring out the maximum potential of each product.
MonteverroAZIENDA AGRICOLA IL PONTE Strada Carige Alta, 15
ph. +39 333 4843966
A successful family-owned agricultural company, guided by passion, that has turned love for tradition into its greatest virtue. The philosophy of essentiality is at the core of its values, with simple and genuine products, processed with respect and attention towards nature and its resources. Azienda Agricola Il Ponte produces red, white, and rosé wines, extra virgin olive oil, and raises chickens, geese, pigs, goats, and cows, all fed with the fruits of the land. For those who want to fully immerse themselves in this dreamlike world, there is the possibility of staying in the charming family farmhouse.
Azienda Agricola Il PonteTENUTA VILLA PINCIANA Strada Villa Pinciana, 2a
ph +39 0564896598
A picturesque estate spanning 63 hectares, with vineyards of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Vermentino. Ilaria and Massimo, young producers, have ambitious growth dreams. Their determination, respect for the territory, and constant desire to learn and improve make them one of the companies with the greatest development potential in the area, and a must-visit for wine lovers always seeking new wine experiences.
WHERE TO EAT
IL FRANTOIO Via Renato Fucini, 10
ph. +39 0564 896484
A bar-restaurant with an artistic soul. The intuition came from Philippe Daverio, an idea immediately appreciated and realized by the owners. The former olive mill has been transformed into an exhibition space with an attached bookshop and boutique where you can enjoy an aperitivo or have dinner. Favorite dishes from the menu include spaghetti with anchovies and pecorino, chickpea cream, salted cod, and sundried tomatoes. There are many vegan options made with delicious local ingredients. Maremma wines and more, a carefully curated wine list that includes interesting niche labels.
Il FrantoioLA DOGANA Località Graticciaia, ph +39 0564 183 5774
La Dogana is situated in a charming and strategic location, just a stone's throw away from the beach. A wine bar and restaurant, it becomes a hot spot for an aperitif at sunset and then for dinner on the shores of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Traditional dishes not to be missed are pici with red shrimp and vegetables, and the fritto misto.
La DoganaULTIMASPIAGGIA Loc. Chiarone Marina
ph. +39 0564 890295
In the southernmost part of the Capalbio, one of the coolest places on the region's coast emerges. Attended by politicians, artists, and other prominent figures, Ultima Spiaggia combines history, authenticity, and entertainment. This place creates the ideal atmosphere to enjoy the day, from coffee to sunset aperitifs, to dinner based on traditional flavors, barefoot in the sand.
WHERE TO STAY
TERRE DI SACRA Strada Provinciale Litoranea
ph +39 0564 183 5774
Born in 1922 from the avant-garde vision of a group of friends, Terre di Sacra harmoniously integrates with the wild nature, acting as a link between the territory and its guests without imposing itself. Carlo Puri Negri, the president of Terre di Sacra, describes his experience as a "patient investment." After years of dedication and hard work to reclaim the land and transform it into what it is today, the territory has returned the favor. Guests can choose to stay in lodges, cabins, or houses surrounded by greenery, all united by a unique common thread: direct contact with nature, accompanied by the comforts of a luxury stay.
Terra di sacraLOCANDA ROSSA Strada Capalbio Pescia Fiorentina, 11b
ph. +39 0564 890462
21 hectares and 3,800 olive trees extend into the heart of Maremma. Locanda Rossa is a reference point in the world of design and environmental sustainability, demonstrating how they can coexist harmoniously. From intimate rooms to spacious three-story villas, including suites measuring up to 80 square meters, there are various accommodation options available. Additionally, there are experiences designed to explore the territory, including nature, renowned wineries, sports, and wellness.
Locanda RossaWHAT TO DO
HORSEBACK RIDING
In the Capalbio area, there are numerous stables that organize horseback rides through nature and along the coast. An experience not to be missed is riding on the beach at sunset, guided by the "butteri," also known as the cowboys of Tuscany.
GOLF
A few kilometers from Capalbio, you can find some of the best golf courses in Tuscany: L'Argentario Golf Club, nestled in the green heart of the peninsula, and the golf course at Terme di Saturnia, where you can also enjoy an afternoon of relaxation.
Terme di Saturnia TENNIS
You can book one of the numerous tennis courts in the area, organizing matches with friends or scheduling lessons with a coach, even on the same day.
SURF, KITE & WIND SURF
For enthusiasts of board sports, Capalbio and the surrounding coasts offer perfect conditions for practicing surf, kite and wind surf. Schools and rentals are available for professionals and beginners who want to embark on an adventure on the waves of Maremma and Argentario.
HOW TO REACH CAPALBIO
To reach Capalbio from Florence, take the Firenze-Siena Highway, continue to Grosseto, and take the exit towards Rome. Then, following the signs for Capalbio, the landscape will open up to the walls of the ancient village, indicating the imminent arrival at the destination. For those arriving via the A1 highway: proceed southbound to the Valdichiana exit, then take the Siena-Grosseto expressway and continue to the Albinia exit, following the signs for Capalbio.
